by Bob Moffatt

Yep. That's 2 inch Schedule 80.

Today we're going to do horizontal2" schedule 80 root pass.

I have the standard bevel, I've cleaned 'em up, I've put just barely a whisper of a face on there and that was more to knock the burr off. I've tacked this in two spots.

You can hold your torch and freehand this in by propping against the pipe and walking it in. We also have the option of resting a number 5 cup in here and wiggle (or walking) this in here. And this is fit tight enough, I have a dirty 1/16". This one kind of closed a little bit so I'm going to use a 3/32nd wire and because this is tight, I'm going to run 120 amps.

I'm running off of an Everlast 161 STH and I'm using a feature called Live Arc. It's just like Touch Start; As soon as I touch the tungsten to the grounded material, gas and amperage come on. I don't have to use the valve.

I'm going to transfer some leads over here and we'll commence our run. This wire may look white on camera, I don't know but that's because I've been using this Scotch Brite on it. It probably had some processing oil. I like to clean these wires off and I just give it a couple swipes with the the old Scotch Brite. I've taken pretty much all the copper color off it. Also, a minute ago, I said holding the torch we can prop fingers and what not. I'm realizing that might be a little uncomfortable for me and I'm going to try something a little different here.

I'm going to hold the torch like this between my finger because I do that a lot and I'm comfortable doing it. And I'm going to just rotate the heel of my hand across here while I'm free-handing. If I get uncomfortable that way, I'll stop.

All right, I'm coming off my tack here. I've heated it up. Pushing a little wire in. I also like to rotate this wire and feel it. As I rotate wire, it tells me that I'm hot enough and I'm pushing on it enough that it's going in.

I'm coming up to the tack. So I'm going to heat it up, add wire, come back a little bit and weld through it. By coming up on a long tack I'm coming up on a mass and right before I come out and snap the arc, I'll long arc this a little bit. It leaves just a little bit of a depression but I don't think it's going to suck that hole all the way through there like can happen on piping porosity.

Okay, I'm going to rotate this pipe and show another method of walking the cup. I'm watching this wire flow off the end. It may not look like it's getting in there but I'm real confident it is, with a feathered edge. I'm running hot enough that I'm real confident this is busting the wall down on the inside. The question is, how much actual reinforcement I'm getting. I am rotating the wire and I can feel it going in loose.

We're hot and smooth. I'm pretty comfortable with that. It just looked funny. Again, I still like the old method of back-feeding especially on horizontal because I can leave that wire on the top edge. But I thought I'd show this tighter, feathered edge type fit here.

That concludes the root run on here and I've wire wheeled it and it is pretty smooth. I'm pretty confident but I do want to look at it in a mirror.

We're going to continue on and do another episode where we're doing the fill and the cap. So this particular size tube and groove and everything on a 2 inch Schedule 80, more than likely I am going to run a 3/32" single bead fill pass. Try to bring it up flush. Slightly below. I want to leave my beveled edges in here and use 'em as a guide. I'll more than likely run a 2 bead cap as well. So, be looking for the next episode when we do the fill in cap. Appreciate you watching Weld.com. Check us out on Facebook and Instagram.

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