UPHILL AND DOWNHILL SMAW OPEN ROOT (4" PIPE)

by Bob Moffatt


Got this prepped, tacked. Get my hood, we'll go through it. Let's do it to it. Let me grab my hood, we'll get to it. All right, first thing's first, pre-clean. And you can do this with a half-round file. It's really not that critical with stick, but just do yourself a favor. It's real simple to do it with a roll cone. On the inside of the pipe, matter of fact, I kind of did it on the outside too, around this heavy coating, cosmoline, whatever it is, inside out. And then I took a flapper wheel, or a grinding disc, to the bevel face. And I put about a sixteenth root face, or "land", whatever you want to call it. And then I went to tack 'em up. And I've got a little bit of a wavy cut.


-I need to talk to Man Cub 'about that. But I've got about a sixteenth opening right here, is what I like for this. Uphill, downhill, we can just adjust the amperage. But this is one of these that we're going to start you out in welding quarters. We're going to build your confidence. So I can do some of these uphill, a couple of runs uphill, a couple of 'em downhill. They go quick. I have already feathered my tacks with a thin wheel. Okay, and I only have three tacks in here. So I'm going to weld on the part that does not have this tack over here. And it's the tightest side. I don't want it to close up anymore, okay? So, 85 amps, Everlast 210STL. We've got it set to Stick welding 6010. Let's go at it.


-Okay, I ran a little bit to double-check settings and everything, and I was a little bit off there. 85 was too high. Plus, I didn't notice it, but there was a real high hot-start set in the machine over here. So I ran a little bit. I'm down to 75 amps. I turned the hot-start feature in the dig arc force off. So I'm going to restart off of the keyhole that I have. And I'm going to go weld through this tack in front of me, which I've prepared the keyhole and the other edge of it. And come up here to the top. So I'm going to be making it, hopefully you'll see the rod stay pretty much to the center all the time. And you may see me stitch this a little bit here. Control the weld tool. I want it to freeze. If I get in trouble, and the keyhole starts opening up, I'll have to stitch a little bit. Get my trusty light out. Looking down through a keyhole that I left behind. And it is decent root, blew in there pretty good. Had to do a little stitching in a place or two. But I started down here, off of a tack, heated up the leading edge, blended into it, came up, welded through a tack that I had feathered out. That's what I was really lookin' at, was to see if it blended in on both sides of it, and it did. So I left a keyhole up here on top.


-Here's a tack that I've feathered out, and blended. And then I've feathered out the leading edge of this down here, and we're going to go downhill this time. When I restart up here, on top, I want to start on the finished bead. I do not want to start in my groove, push it up, and then have to weld back through that. I want to start up here on the root that's already done. Part of this root run that's already done. 'Cause I can take that out with a thin-bladed grinder and shake that before I go to a hot pass or cap. So, I want to strike the arc, let the rod settle down, set it on the leading edge of the keyhole, and rip right through this. Always want to reference the center of the pipe. So I can do this like this, but I'm going to try something a little different here and go 90 degrees so that, when I get goin', I can put pressure on this rod, and I can feel it, and get that rod angle where I want it. Uphill, downhill, roots, horizontal, 6g, 6010 will weld in all positions. Rip it and go. I said "rip it", not "whip it". ♪ Whip it good ♪


-Okay, so there's a demonstration on doin' this, and just doin' it in quarters. Rollin' through your tacks. Startin' below on the bead, comin' up into your keyhole, keep right on goin'. Blend it in, pause for a second, let it blend in. Then keep right on goin'. Good thing to reference the leading edge or the center of the pipe while you're on the leading edge of your root. Now, you know, we're full enough that we can just cap this. So, E7018. I like to put my rod in here and bend it 90 degrees so that, you know, I like to kind of get it back here a little bit, move it around. But it's just one of those things where, as I start on the side, I can just rotate this. Actually, when I'm on top, personally, I like my rod pointed backwards so that the slag is flowin' behind me. I don't like pushin' slag in front of my bead when I'm comin' up off a pipe. So, I am going to strike an arc, let the rod get goin', settle down, and then I'm going to move in. I don't want to weave outside of my groove. I want to watch my edges, and I want to watch, see how high this is, and get a gentle crown to it. Let's see how it goes. Decent profile. Again, strike on the side over here, and weld up in quarters to get comfortable with doin' that. Gettin' that transition. And then, later on, you can go clear to the bottom of the pipe and do it in halves, and come clear to the top. So, decent profile. I didn't clean it up, and I haven't hit it with a wire wheel, but we don't have undercut. And we are within our limits of the reinforcement, or the crown.